PEST LIBRARY
- ANTS
- SPIDERS
- COCKROACHES
- CRICKETS
- MILLIPEDES
- SILVERFISH
- RAT/MOUSE
- WASP
- TERMITE
- FLEA
ANTS
There are over 3,000 species of ants in Australia and most are difficult to identify without a microscope and specialist knowledge. There are very effective baits for some pest species while others require control using sprays.
PROTECTING YOUR HOME FROM ANTS
Inside:
- Clean up spills and food crumbs quickly.
- Empty rubbish bins often
- Do not feed pets outside
- Store food in pest-proof containers
- Rinse out jars and containers before placing them in recycling bins
Outside:
- Keep trees and shrubs trimmed back from your house.
- Keep gutters and storm drains free of debris
- Watch for new ant mounds or nests around your home
- Keep trash bags sealed and in closed rubbish bins
- Seal doors and windows
Invasive ant species of concern
|
Appearance |
Common name |
Western Australian (and legal) status |
Australian status |
Bites or stings? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
 |
Red imported fire ant Solenopsis invicta |
WA declared free in October 2023.
|
Localised incursions (Qld and WA) |
Painful sting and stings relentlessly when disturbed (Anaphylactic shock in some people) |
 |
Eradication program ongoing |
Localised incursions (WA) |
Bites, but not painful to people |
|
 |
Eradication program ongoing |
Localised incursions (NT, WA, Qld) |
Bites, but not painful to people |
|
 |
Established in WA |
Widely established (WA, SA, Vic, NSW, Tas, ACT) |
Bites, but not painful to people |
|
 |
Big-headed ants |
Established in WA |
Widely established (WA, NT, VIC, Qld, NSW) |
Stings, but not painful to people |
 |
Exotic Tetramorium species (Tetramorium bicarinatum) rarely cause damage but can become a nuisance when found in high numbers at barbeques, on pet food and when blocking sprinkler heads. |
Established in WA |
Established in WA and other states |
Painful sting |
 |
Established in WA |
Established in WA, NT, NSW, QLD, VIC |
Painful sting |
|
 |
Native |
House-infesting and attracted to sweet liquids and foods |
Does not bite or sting |
|
 |
Bull ants (Bull dog or inch ants) |
Native |
Natural and urban areas. Underground nests |
Painful sting |
 |
Cocktail ants (Valentine ants) |
Native |
Bush land and residential blocks within bush land |
Do not bite but can sting |
 |
Green headed ants |
Native |
Natural and urban areas. Underground nests |
Painful sting |
 |
Native |
Large mounds in open sunny areas |
Bites aggressively with jaws |
|
 |
Night or Nocturnal ants |
Native |
Nest in old trees, woodpiles and in the ground |
Some species will bite |
 |
Nylanderia species |
Both native and non-native species |
Nest in the ground outside. Excavate sand in gardens, lawns and pathways |
Harmless and do not sting |
 |
Iridomyrmex chasei spp. (native to WA) |
Native |
Nest in the ground, disturb sand in gardens and pathways |
Does not sting, but will swarm and bite |
 |
Native and introduced species |
Nest in roof and wall spaces, electrical equipment, electrical kitchen appliances etc. |
Does not bite or sting |
SPIDERS
Australian tarantulas
Australia has its own native tarantulas, though they’re also known as whistling or barking spiders because of the sounds some species can produce by rubbing their front limbs against their jaws. They are also called bird-eating spiders, although it is rarely justifiable. These spiders mostly feed on insects, including other spiders, lizards and frogs and would occasionally prey on bird hatchlings.
Four genera, Selenocosmia, Selenotholus, Selenotypus, and Phlogiellus are generally found throughout the country. Only six species have been officially identified, though it’s likely many more exists. Despite their intimidating large size and hairy legs, (6cm body and up to 16cm legs-pan) tarantulas aren’t fatal to humans; they can render painful bites because of their large fangs (1cm long), but severe effects (nausea, vomiting, fever) are rare. They can, however, kill dogs. Females live for about 12 years and males about five.
Common garden orb weaver spider
As the name suggests, common garden orb weave spiders are a typical sight around Australia. Their bites have only minor effects, such as some local pain, but they are aggressive: they’re the most common spider species to bite.
They measure between 1.5cm and 3cm and live in all the gardens, generally weaving webs between trees, on hedges or washing lines, in places where other insects are likely to fly and get caught in the sticky threads. Active at night, they hide during the day and rest with their legs withdrawn under the body, hanging off a thread under a leaf or in the clothes hanging from the line.
Huntsman spiders
Huntsman spiders are widespread in Australia. They are famous for being the big (up to 15cm leg-span) scary, hairy, black spiders bolting out from behind the curtains. In reality, they are reluctant to bite and more likely to run away when approached and their venom isn’t considered dangerous for humans.
Their danger comes more from causing accidents by the terrified drivers who react to a huntsman jumping out from behind the sun visor or dashboard of a car when it’s in motion. Despite their intimidating size, huntsman spiders can be an ally in the house; they help with pest-control by eating smaller insects.
Mouse spider
There are eight species of mouse spider found all across Australia and they’re typically found in burrows, often near rivers or waterways, and can occasionally be found in suburban areas.
Their venom is similar to the funnel-web spiders, although no deaths have been attributed to them; only one case of severe envenomation has been recorded. Studies have shown the funnel-web spider antivenom to be effective for mouse spider envenomation; and because it is sometimes difficult to tell the two species apart, the bites should be treated with the same precaution.
Mouse spiders are rather lethargic and rarely aggressive. The females generally remain in their burrow, while the males wander looking for them, generally in late summer to early winter. Unlike other spiders, mouse spiders are often active during the daytime, while other species from the same family prefer to wonder at night to avoid the heat and the day-active predators.
Redback spider(Latrodectus hasselti)
Redback spiders are found throughout Australia, in many habitats, including urban areas. They often hide in dry, sheltered places such as garden sheds, mailboxes and under toilet seats.
Numbers of redback spider bites are uncertain, but about 2000 are reported each year and about 250 people receive antivenom. No deaths have been recorded since redback antivenom became available in the 1950s.
Most serious bites are from the female redback spider, which measures about 1cm long (bigger than males) and is recognisable by the well-known red stripe on its back, from which it gains its name. Their venom affects the nervous system, which is potentially dangerous for humans, but their small fangs make many of the bites ineffective. Envenomation can cause various effects, but the main symptom is severe and persistent pain – which can last hours to days depending on the person’s sensitivity to the venom – and may include nausea, malaise and lethargy.
Cupboard spiders (Steatoda sp.) are often mistaken for redbacks and they produce similar symptoms, though their venom is less potent. Redback venom is effective against these bites.
Recluse spider
Alson known as a fiddleback spider, the recluse spider has potentially dangerous venom that can be haemotoxic, damaging the blood and skin as well. Alarming emails have circulated about this spider inflicting terrible damage to human tissue but this was only a hoax meant to scare people.
In 20 years that fiddleback spiders been known to exist in Australia, their range hasn’t increased and not a single envenomation case has been reported here, so despite the myth, this spider can hardly be considered dangerous in Australia – though they are a major cause of serious bites in South America. Moreover, they are known to only have tiny fangs to inject their venom and are not inclined to bite.
Trap door spider
These spiders are named after their habit of camouflaging the entrance of their burrow to trick their prey into falling inside.They measure about 1.5 to 3cm long and as is often the case, females are distinctively larger than males but males tend to be more aggressive when feeling threatened.
Found throughout Australia’s natural or urban environments, trap door spiders cause only minor symptoms for humans, generally inflicting only localised pain, but sometimes nausea, lethargy and malaise.
Just like the mouse spiders, trap door spiders are often mistaken for funnel-web spiders, especially since the early effects of their bites are similar; these spiders should therefore be treated with caution. While most spiders live for about one year, trap door spiders can live between five and 20 years.
COCKROACHES
American Cockroach
The American cockroach is one of the largest pest cockroaches to invade homes and commercial properties.
APPEARANCE
- 35 – 40mm long.
- Shining red–brown in color.
- Wings longer than the body in male; only just overlap abdomen in female.
- Runs (may fly at very high temperatures).
LIFECYCLE OF THE AMERICAN COCKROACH
- The ootheca (egg case) containing up to 16 eggs is carried by the female for several days before being deposited. Sometimes cemented down and tend to be grouped.
- Hatch in 1 – 2 months.
- Nymphs usually develop in 6 -12 months, but it can take up to 15 months.
HABITS OF THE AMERICAN COCKROACH
- Also known as the ‘Palmetto bug’ because they live on trees, the American cockroach prefers dark, humid and undisturbed areas and can be found in subfloors, basements, kitchens, roof voids and bathrooms of homes.
- One of the smallest pest cockroaches, brown banded adult cockroaches are approximately 10 – 15mm in length and characterised by yellow-brown stripes across their abdomen.
Australian Cockroach
LIFECYCLE OF THE AUSTRALIAN COCKROACH
- Females deposit the ootheca (egg case) containing 24 eggs a day after production.
- After hatching nymphs take 6-12 months to develop into adults.
HABITS OF THE AUSTRALIAN COCKROACH
- Enter buildings at night from gardens/debris.
- Generally prevalent in areas where winters are relatively mild.
- Despite its name, it isn’t a native species.
German Cockroach(Blatella germanica)
APPEARANCE
- Notorious for their world-wide distribution, German cockroaches are easily identifiable by 2 dark longitudinal stripes on their pronotum.
- Adults grow to approximately 12 – 15mm in length.
LIFECYCLE OF THE GERMAN COCKROACH
- Females carry 35 – 40 eggs in an ootheca (egg case) until they are ready to hatch.
- Hatch in 1 month.
- Nymphs take between 6 weeks to 6 months to develop into adults.
- Generally 3-4 generations per year.
HABITS OF THE GERMAN COCKROACH
- Most commonly found indoors.
- Prefers wet, humid conditions and are typically found in kitchens and bathrooms in homes and commercial properties.
Oriental Cockroach
APPEARANCE
- Dark brown or black in colour.
20 -25mm long. - The wings undeveloped in female and cover ¾ length of the abdomen in the male.
LIFECYCLE OF THE ORIENTAL COCKROACH
- Females deposit 16 eggs in an ootheca (egg case).
- Hatch in 2 months.
- Nymphs take 6-18 months to develop into adults.
HABITS OF THE ORIENTAL COCKROACH
- Highly adapted for surviving in the natural environment, Oriental cockroaches thrive in cool, damp areas such as basements, drains and openings beneath porches.
- Known for their preference for feeding on garbage and decay, these insects can most commonly be found in rubbish tips and leaf litters.
- Runs rather than flies.
Smoky Borwn Cockroach
APPEARANCE
- 3-35 mm mm long.
- Shining dark brown in colour.
- Wings longer than the body in male; only just overlap abdomen in female.
- Runs (may fly at very high temperatures).
LIFECYCLE OF THE SMOKY BROWN COCKROACH
- Females deposit the ootheca (egg case) containing 22-26 eggs a day after production.
- Nymphs take between 6-12 months to develop into adults.
- The noticeable difference between nymphs and adults, apart from size, is the lack of wings in the young.
HABITS OF THE SMOKY BROWN COCKROACH
- Lives in tree hollows, under bark, under floors, and enters buildings at night.
- Nocturnal (hides during the day in cracks and crevices or any other dark warm places).
- Has a habit of entering houses and contaminating food with excrement, regurgitated salivary fluid and potentially harmful bacteria.
CRICKETS
You almost certainly have heard the sound of crickets on a warm Colorado night. That sawing, chirping noise might bring back pleasant memories at first. However, after it goes on and on night after night, the noise begins to get annoying, frustrating, and extremely irritating. And that’s when cricket control becomes essential.BEE/WASP
LIFE CYCLE & HABITS
Adults are very attracted to lights, and become active at night (hide during the day) to crawl, jump or fly sometimes in countless numbers up the sides of houses, entering openings of even second and third story windows and roof skylights. The continued, monotonous “chirp” is loud and distracting, resulting in lost sleep. They will feed on silk, woollens, nylon, rayon and wood. They can bite when handled carelessly. They are found in fields, pastures, lawns, roadsides and in woods.
There are many different kinds and sizes of field crickets, none of which can survive and reproduce in buildings. They are found outdoors in similar places as are house crickets, especially under stones or boards, entering cool, moist basements in hot summers.
CONTROL MEASURES
Crickets are usually active at night (nocturnal), prefer shelter in cracks and crevices and invade homes seeking moisture. An occasional cricket or two in the home usually presents no serious problem. They are seldom serious pests in the home.
PREVENTION
Sanitation is the most important means of eliminating nuisance crickets. Keep all areas in and around buildings free of moisture, dense vegetation and weeds (30-cm band next to foundation). Mow lawns, cut weeds, and clean up garbage collection areas. Remove harbourage sites such as piles of bricks, stones, rotting wood and other debris. Caulk and seal all cracks and crevices, especially near the ground level at basement windows and doorways.
Make sure that all windows and doors are tight-fitting with proper screening in place. Exclusion is an important factor as well as light discipline. Avoid bright mercury vapour lights in entryways and along structure perimeters since crickets will be attracted from far distances. Convert to sodium vapour yellow lights (less attractive to insects) instead of white, neon or mercury vapour lights.
Never store firewood next to the house foundation. Raise garbage cans off the ground if practical. Trash and dumpsters should be placed as far from the building as possible. Crickets are attracted to food in these areas. Crickets may be troublesome at trash dumps, grassy roadsides, pasture fields and wooded areas (breeding sites) before entering structures. Crickets can be killed with a fly swatter, collected by vacuum cleaner or broom and dustpan and discarded, if a few are present. Sometimes pet owners, who keep cricket-eating animals, accidentally allow crickets to escape. These individuals establish an indoor population.
FLEAS
Fleas feed on blood and although their mouth is small, a flea bite can hurt and most certainly can become inflamed, itchy and swollen. Once fed, the flea will look to mate and immediately lay eggs. Some of these may fall in the yard, some in the house and some will remain on the pet. When the eggs hatch, a small caterpillar-like creature comes out to feed on anything organic. This includes dried blood, flea faeces, animal hair and a variety of other organic matter. The flea larva will feed for days after which it will spin a cocoon and undergo metamorphosis. This stage is called the flea pupa. No spray will completely eradicate flea pupa. This is why you still have fleas following the most thorough of initial treatments.
ABOUT FLEAS
It is important to understand that fleas will persist if you only address one or two locations where they are breeding. Don’t think that treating the pet will keep your home or yard from getting fleas. The same is true about the yard. Follow this general rule, if the pet is an inside animal, you must treat the home and the pet to ensure no fleas. If the pet is an outside animal, you will need to treat the pet as well as the yard area the pet has access to. If the pet spends a lot of time both inside and out, then consider treating the pet, yard and home. Always remember that flea control is egg control. If you stop the eggs from developing on the pet, in the yard and in the home – you can’t have fleas!
Once infested, a proper treatment will take a few weeks to rid any structure of fleas. If done correctly, the cycle would be interrupted with the first treatment and once the flea pupae have all hatched out, the flea infestation will cease. How long it takes to treat your flea infestation depends on how many flea pupae are in your home. It could be resolved with one treatment; it could take three to six weeks of spraying once a week.
Many flea pupae are left in the cycle following the initial treatment. One or two pupae hatching in the days following the first treatment will usually go unnoticed, but a mass hatching will be uncomfortable for those inhabiting the home and re-treatments at that point are suggested. Remember these important facts about flea pupae for a thorough understanding of what is happening in your home following a treatment.
- No chemical will kill the pupae consistently. When you do a liquid treatment with an adulticide and a growth regulator, the adulticide kills the adult fleas which are out and about. It will also kill any larva crawling around. The growth regulator acts on the existing eggs and once they are exposed to the regulator, they will not be able to develop normally into adults. However, there remains all the pupae which are still developing. These could take another 4-8 weeks to hatch out. This all depends on temperature, the species of flea and humidity.
- Since pupae are motivated to hatch out when there is activity around them, be sure to keep people and pets active in the rooms where the flea problem is the worst. Typically, people do the all the wrong things when dealing with a flea problem. Although the eggs may be falling from cats and dogs, the adult fleas are more than happy to live their whole life on the pet. They have no interest in people. The new fleas you are seeing are the pupae cocoons hatching. If you decide to remove a pet from the home or rooms where the flea problem was most prevalent, you will leave the pupae cocoons no choice but to seek the next available blood meal – you!
- Do not leave any room empty for any length of time hoping to “starve” the fleas. Flea pupae are motivated by movement and body heat. They will not hatch out if a room is void of activity. In fact, one way of getting them to hatch out quicker than they are inclined is the use of a vacuum. Daily vacuuming will excite them. In bad cases, some homeowners have sped the hatching process up by walking around in white socks. The white will reflect light and appears hot to a flea. Hot means blood and this will cause the cocoons to hatch. Immediately after walking around for a while, vacuum. The effect of vacuuming and the spray in the carpet will knockdown that many more fleas which will not be able to bite. Do this every day until you can do so without seeing any fleas. Flea cocoons can wait for over a year for a target.
Since the flea cycle can be completed on the pet, it is important to gain egg control on their fur. To maintain the pet, shampoo will kill some adult fleas, but do nothing for flea eggs.
FLEA TREATMENT
You will need to vacate the premises for 4 hours after the treatment and a follow-up treatment may be required in 6 weeks.
Our Part:
We will conduct an internal and external blanket spray. All internal and external areas will be covered with a chemical. You and your pets will be required to vacate the premises for 4 hours after the treatment.
Your Part:
Wash your pets in a good flea shampoo for 3 days prior to the treatment, start your pets on a good flea treatment. Vacuum daily, using a paper bag until your appointment. If you have floorboards, mop daily with hot water and tea tree oil. Mow the lawn short and soak with water a day before treatment. Clear the ground of any leaf matter and remove goods you have on the ground inside the house and place them on tables.
After the Treatment:
Second treatments may be required. Vacuum daily after the day of treatment as this will assist the eggs hatching and the pupae being released from their eggs. You may continue to see fleas and be bitten for up to 3 weeks
FLEA CONTROL METHODS
Internal: We will conduct an internal blanket spray which means that all floor areas will be covered with a chemical. The more floor area that is free the more areas that can be treated.
External:
We will conduct an external blanket spray which means that all ground areas externally, both grass and cemented/tiled areas will be covered with a chemical.
Sub-floor area: A powder or a blanket spray will be applied to the subfloor area.
PROTECTING YOUR HOME
INSIDE:
- Clean up spills and food crumbs quickly
- Empty rubbish bins often
- Do not feed pets inside
- Store food in pest-proof containers
- Rinse out jars and containers before placing them in rubbish and recycling bins
OUTSIDE:
- Keep trees and shrubs trimmed back from your house
- Keep gutters and storm drains free of debris
- Watch for new ant mounds or nests around your home
- Keep trash bags sealed and in closed rubbish bins
- Seal doors and windows
MILLIPEDES
Millipedes normally live in the garden. They are beneficial insects helping with the re-cycling of dead plant material. They don’t hurt anyone. However, sometimes they do find there way inside homes. If you are worried about millipedes inside your home, there are certainly some tips to reduce their presence. If they do find their way in and you don’t fancy sweeping them up and throwing them back outside, there are a number of products to help you out!
MILLIPEDE IDENTIFICATION WHAT DO THEY LOOK LIKE?
- They vary in size and colour (depending on species). The portuguese variety is black and up to 45 mm long
- May vary in the number of body segments, but they always have 2 pairs of legs per segment (centipedes have one pair of legs per segment).
- Young millipedes look just like the adults (only smaller).
SIGNS OF A MILLIPEDE INFESTATION
For many homeowners, the millipede may only be an occasional invader and are unlikely to experience an infestation. However, for homeowners in Victoria, South Australia and Tasmania, they can become victim to an invasion of portuguese millipedes as these can build up in huge numbers in garden beds. An infestation will be apparent when large numbers suddenly appear in the house.
MAIN PEST SEASON
The main pest season for portuguese millipedes is Autumn, when they disperse after mating and the chances of an invasion are highest. However, there can sometimes also be an invasion in Spring.
MILLIPEDE FACTS
- They are not insects, although they are members of the Arthropod Phylum, which includes insects and spiders.
- They generally live outdoors in damp areas such as garden beds. However, they happily live in damp sub-floors in cardboard boxes.
- Although they are generally harmless, they can release pungent excretions (to avoid being eaten by birds), which can stain skin and clothes and irritate eyes.
- Portuguese millipedes are one of the few varieties attracted to light….. which is why they often invade homes.
MILLIPEDE PREVENTION TIPS
- Keeping the perimeter of the home clear of garden beds and mulch is the best preventative step. However, if this is not possible / desired, non-plant mulch (pebbles) should be used and watering should be kept to a minimum.
- Potential entry points to the home should be sealed up appropriately and draft excluders / screens should be in good condition.
For areas prone to Portuguese millipede invasion, there are some additional tips- Turn off external lights and use curtains / blinds during the season to make your home less attractive
- Consider using a light trap away from the house as an alternative light source to attract and kill them
- Place smooth rounded physical barriers around the perimeter of the home at ground level to prevent them climbing into your home (they cannot climb smooth surfaces)
MILLIPEDE CONTROL TIPS
- They are easily killed with a direct spray of insecticides either with an aerosol or ready to use pump pack.
- How to get rid of millipedes is best achieved by carrying out a perimeter spray with an insecticides, focusing on good coverage at ground level and around potential entry points.
SILVERFISH
Maybe you find a silverfish trapped in the sink or bath? Maybe you see a silverfish run from under an old pair of shoes in your wardrobe? Some may just shrug their shoulders. Others know that this could mean big trouble…. because where there is one silverfish there will be others….. and where there are silverfish there could be damage to clothing and more! Many struggle to get rid of silverfish when they take up residence, but if you understand a bit about silverfish behaviour and use the correct silverfish control products, there is no reason you cannot get rid of these insects.
SILVERFISH IDENTIFICATION WHAT DO SILVERFISH LOOK LIKE?
- Silverfish are primitive, wingless insects (so they have six legs). Their tapered body and fast wriggling movement, along with their silvery scales gives them some “fish-like” features.
- Silverfish eggs are whitish and oval-shaped, about 0.8 mm long. They will often be found in groups of up to 60 eggs in cracks and crevices.
- Young silverfish look very similar to the adult, except they are smaller and whiter in colour.
- Adult silverfish can be up to 3 cm long. If you find a large silverfish, the chances are they have been laying eggs for a long time and you could have a big problem.
SIGNS OF AN INFESTATION
Other than seeing silverfish, holes in clothing, chewed areas on boxes and damage to pages of books could also indicate a silverfish infestation. Sometimes the damage is accompanied by a yellow stain
MAIN PEST SEASON
There is no real pest season for silverfish as they live indoors. Certainly warmer weather allows them to breed more quickly, but it is the humidity that is critical for their survival. They need a relative humidity of between 75% and 95%, which generally only occurs in Summer in cooler climates (year round in the tropics) or in buildings where there is dampness or a moisture issue.
SILVERFISH FACTS
- Silverfish live in moist areas, with a high humidity. In buildings they are commonly found in roof voids, sub-floors, bathrooms and laundries. They are commonly found in stored cardboard boxes.
- Silverfish are nocturnal, running away from light and vibrations – so they like dark, undisturbed areas.
- Silverfish have a strong preference for materials containing complex sugars such as starch. Complex sugars are found in many materials including paper, glue, carpet and clothing. Silverfish will also eat other plant and animal materials such as cotton and leather.
- Silverfish can cause significant damage to clothing as well as spoil food. However, it is their damage to books, photos and documents that is often irreplaceable.
- Adult silverfish can live for 2-8 years, getting progressively bigger. In that time they can lay a lot of eggs… so a large silverfish may mean you have a big problem.
- Silverfish don’t come up drains, they fall into basins and baths and are unable to climb out.
SILVERFISH PREVENTION TIPS
- As silverfish like moist / high humidity environments, reducing humidity in susceptible areas is the key; use de-humidifiers, air-conditioning and fans and in bathrooms, kitchens, laundries, roof voids, sub-floors and any other damp areas.
- Try and find out if there is a reason for the moisture / high humidity and fix it. (Poor drainage under the house, leaking roof, leaking taps, tumble dryer not vented to the outside are common problems).
- It is impossible to remove all food sources (clothes, paper and books), but you can make it hard for them to access. Keep these items off the floor and stored in sealed containers if possible.
- Maintain a strict hygiene regime. Not only vacuuming thoroughly, including in all those dark corners, but cleaning up any spilt food and storing open food in sealed containers. Make sure the contents of the vacuum bag are placed in a sealed bag and put in the bin after each use.
- Use caulking agents to fill any gaps in walls and skirting boards.
- Carefully check any cardboard boxes you may bring into the house to avoid re-infestation.
SILVERFISH CONTROL TIPS
- Prior to any silverfish treatment a Spring clean is required;
- Ideally, throw out any cardboard boxes used for storage and replace with sealed plastic containers. If you must keep cardboard boxes they should be stored off the ground and treated (but this won’t guarantee re-infestation)
- Carry out a thorough vacuum of rooms (especially the room edges and under furniture) and cupboards
- Remove any clothes and belongings from areas to be treated and check for silverfish.
- If the clothes and belongings are not susceptible to heat, place in a black plastic bag and leave in the sun for 1-2 hours, to kill any silverfish and eggs on the clothes.
- Use a total release aerosol (fogger or “bomb) in rooms of high infestation.
- Use an insecticide spray (aerosol or ready to use pump pack) under furniture, around the perimeter of rooms, and in all shelves and drawers of cupboards.
- Potential hot spots in roof voids and sub-floors should also be sprayed.
RAT/MOUSE
Rodents in Our Environment Rats and mice have been responsible for some of the world’s worst disease epidemics, including the spread of leptospirosis and typhus fever.
Rodents are notorious for contaminating your food and belongings with their hair, droppings and urine.
Excessive amounts can result in food poisoning, unpleasant odour production and food spoilage. Rodents can carry fleas or ticks, which can harm humans and pets. Finally, rodents also cause physical damage to your property, even gnawing through timber, food containers, particle board, insulation and electrical wiring.
Rodent Control We use the latest and safest methods designed to ensure your property is rodent free.
Our treatment methods are safe for your customers, visitors, staff and surrounding environment. Depending on the infestation and environmental conditions, additional services may be required.
Precautions Before and After Treatment A key method of control we use is the placement of tamper proof bait stations.
These stations are secured and must remain in the locations that they are placed in.
Keep children and pets away from all bait stations.
Please do not move any bait station/s to a different location, as human scent can discourage the rodent from interacting with the station.
This increases the time it takes to achieve successful results.
How to Get the Best From Your Treatment
- Dispose of food scraps promptly and clean food preparation areas thoroughly.
- Inspect living and working areas for potential rodent entrances and block them where possible with concrete, hard setting filler, steel wool or heavy gauge sheet metal.
- Keep your property clear of rubbish. Rubbish bins to have tight-fitting lids and are regularly emptied. It may take up to one month for the treatment to take full effect on the rodents. You may still see or hear signs of rodent activity immediately after the treatment, but these will diminish and cease after a few weeks. We will return on an agreed date to remove the tamper proof stations and any carcasses.
WASP
Fortunately, it is not a common issue, but if you have a wasp problem it can be a major concern. Wasp stings hurt and they can be dangerous! Preventing wasps building nests in the first place is the best form of control and can be achieved quite easily with some good home maintenance and the correct wasp control products. Due to the safety concerns, wasp nest removal can be a lot more difficult.
Safety should always be your first concern and if you are not confident in dealing with it yourself, call your council or a professional, especially if you suspect you may have European wasps.
WASP IDENTIFICATION WHAT DO WASPS LOOK LIKE?
There are a number of wasp species in Australia. They all have a similar appearance; large insects with a narrow “waist”, an abdomen that narrows to a point (this is where the sting is!) and have warning colourations (red, yellow and black).
There are three main types of wasp in Australia:
- Paper wasps: Build nests from eaves, the underside of branches and leaves. Nests are normally quite small (maximum 100-200 wasps) and hang by a stalk. They tend not be aggressive, only stinging when defending their nest. Size: up to 2.5cm
- Mud-daubing wasps: These are large solitary wasps than build a small nest consisting of a number of cells made of mud, often plastered to the wall or ceiling. Paralysed prey (normally a spider or caterpillar) is placed in each cell before laying an egg and sealing the cell. They tend not to be aggressive, only stinging when defending their nest.
- European wasps: These bright yellow and black striped wasps are capable of forming very large nests of up to 100,000 individuals! The majority of nests are found in the ground (80%), often visible only by a hole (with wasps flying in and out), with the remainder of nests found in buildings (roof spaces, wall voids and eaves). They also build nests under exposed compost heaps. The nest consists of a number of cells forming combs (similar to a honey bee), although they are not often visible as the nest is covered by a protective paper covering. European wasps and their close relatives, the English wasp (which is also found in Australia), are not aggressive to humans unless disturbed. If disturbed they can be very aggressive, many wasps can attack at the same time, delivering multiple stings. Size: 1 – 1.5cm.
The type of wasp nest can also help in identification.
SIGNS OF AN INFESTATION
- Signs of a paper wasp nest is normally the observation of a nest hanging off the eaves or a plant.
- European wasp nests are sometime harder to locate. If you see wasps around, check your property for nests as they generally only travel 50 – 250m from the nest.
MAIN PEST SEASON
- Paper wasps will be present all year round although they tend to be more active and build their nests when the temperature warms up in Spring.
- European wasps are only found in the more temperate climates; Southern NSW,
- Victoria, South Australia and Tasmania. Whereas their activity reduces during the cooler months, in the warmer areas they can remain active all year round (which is why their nests can get so large).
WASP FACTS
- European wasps are native to Europe are only found in the more temperate climates; Southern NSW, Victoria, South Australia and Tasmania. The warmer parts of Australia are too warm. However, the cooler parts of Australia still have warmer Winters than Europe and so the wasp nests continue to grow during Winter (when in Europe they die back in the cold).
- Paper wasps mainly feed on protein, capturing caterpillars for their young
- European wasps eat protein (meat) but also are highly attractive to sugar foods. Wasps around rubbish, picnic areas and especially soft drink cans are a major problem.
- Single wasp stings can normally be treated by a cold pack and pain killers if required. However, if you suffer from allergies or receive multiple stings you should seek medical help immediately.
WASP PREVENTION TIPS
- Trim back bushes and over-hanging branches from the perimeter of your home.
- Carry out regular inspections of the perimeter of your building and gardens for wasp activity and signs of early nest building, especially in Spring.
- In European wasp areas, ensure rubbish bins are closed and food is not left unattended. Also make sure that any composting is carried out in containers.
WASP CONTROL TIPS
- To target individual wasps, standard aerosols are the best option. Make sure the wasp gets a good dose and leave the area – they tend to get angry when sprayed!
- To prevent wasps building nests around on the outside of your home, spray the perimeter of your home (especially the eaves) with insecticide. Normally a ready to use pump pack is best suited for the job.
TERMITE
What are Termites? Termites are mistakenly referred to as White Ants.
Although they resemble ants and are a milky white colour they bear no relation to the ant family. There are great variations in the colour, shape and size of termites depending upon the species but they are all characterised by certain similarities. How do Termites cause damage?
Termites are insects which devour wood and most cellulose containing materials like cardboard, paper, etc. Termites may be found hiding in the walls and roofs of residences, eating through timber structures, furnishings.
How many Termites are in a colony? Termite colonies can contain up to several million termites. The insects in each colony are divided into castes which determine their activities. Termites in the worker caste are responsible for digging tunnels and ensuring food supply. Soldiers prevent intruders from harming the colony, while reproductive termites’ or alates’ main job is to perpetuate the species through an annual colonizing flight. Soldier and worker termites are unable to reproduce.
Termites are active 24/7 – 365 days per year.
How do I prevent Termites?
- Regularly clean your gutters
- Keep mulch, debris and firewood away from the house and don’t leave timber lying around the yard
- Trim all trees, bushes and other dense vegetation that surround the exterior of your home
- Prevent moisture build up by repairing leaky taps and water lines • Don’t leave timber, cardboard or paper on the ground
- Don’t place garden beds directly against the exterior of your home Termites What are the signs of a Termite infestation? Signs of a termite infestation can be found inside your home, in sub floors, roof voids, gardens or around the structure of your property.
- Termite shelter tubes and tunnels
- Blow holes in trees and tree nests
- Sagging floors or hollow wood
- Earthen packing on the surface of foundation walls or joints in your property structure
- Termite frass (tiny pellets) that can be found at termite entry points
What do I do if I find Termites or Termite damage?
If you have found termites or signs of termite activity, we recommend you take the following steps:
- Don’t touch/disturb the termites or the area and warn others to do the same.
- Cover the area to keep out light.
- Do not attempt to kill the termites with generic pest sprays.
- Call the termite specialists
FLEA
Fleas are a common household pest especially prevalent when you or neighbouring properties have pets. Flea bites to some people and pets can just be an irritation, but for others the bites can cause an allergic reaction and result in rashes.
A common indication of a flea infestation is if your pets are excessively scratching and grooming themselves. This is caused by the discomfort caused as the adult fleas feed on the pet’s blood. A thorough examination of the pet and its fur should be conducted by the homeowner or veterinarian. People also may experience bites that leave behind itchy marks.
Interesting fact about fleas is that they do not bite humans! Pet fleas only bite pets – dogs, cats etc. Their mouth parts are not designed to bite/pierce human skin, sure they cause irritation and you start scatching.
Fleas respond to vibration when you enter the room. They only start jumping as they sence a possible target to feed on!
Fleas can only jump 150 – 200 mm and once on you they cannot jump any higher, only crawl higher up your leg. All they can do is jump off and fall to the ground. So most fleas when found on humans are found well below the knee, unless infesting couches chairs, beds etc.
FLEA LIFE CYCLE
There are four stages that make up the life cycle of a flea – egg, larva, pupa and imago or adult.
- The eggs of a flea are tiny, white and oval-shaped. A female flea can lay up to 600 eggs in her lifetime. They are most often laid on the host in batches of up to 50. The eggs can easily roll off of the host and on to the ground, making the areas where the host sleeps, rests or nests a primary location for eggs and developing fleas. An egg may take from two days to two weeks to hatch.
- These eggs are commonly found indoors in floor cracks and crevices, along skirtings, under rug edges and in furniture. Outdoors sand and gravel provide very suitable conditions for the development of the larvae, hence the common, but erroneous, name “sand fleas.” Pets bedding especially prone, so clean and air bedding often.
- The eggs hatch in to small, worm-like larva that are covered in bristles, have no eyes and have mouths that are made for chewing. The larvae feed on organic matter such as the feces of mature fleas, dead skin, hair and feathers.
- In the pupal stage, the larva is covered in a silky cocoon. Adult fleas emerge from this pupal stage within approximately five to fourteen days or may remain resting in the cocoon until they sense vibration, pressure, heat, noise, or carbon dioxide that signifies that a potential host and blood source is near.
- Once the pupal develops in to an adult, it must feed on blood before it is capable of reproducing. Overall, the cycle from egg to adult can take from two weeks to eight months. If a flea does not emerge from its cocoon, it can survive for several months without eating however, a newly emerged adult flea will die within a week if it does not obtain blood.
A typical flea population consists of 50% eggs, 35% larvae, 10% pupae and 5% adults with this population developing best under warm, moist conditions. Under ideal conditions, ten female fleas can multiply to over a quarter million fleas of different life stages, in just 30 days!
End of Lease Flea Treatment / Pet Bond Spray
Are you moving from your Rental house?
Have you had pets and require an end of lease flea treatment (Carpet Fumigation, Pet Bond Spray) as per your rental agreement? Our end-of-lease flea treatments are carried out after carpet cleaning has taken place and you are ready to hand the keys back to your agent or landlord. We then provide you with your certificate and warranty.
Our end of lease flea treatment will help you receive a 100% bond back when it comes time to leave.